Mokonuts Cookbook Review

Mokonuts: The Cookbook

We are back with our restaurant cookbook reviews, and today we look at Mokonuts: The Cookbook by Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem, published by Phaidon.

This long-awaited title transports readers into the heart of one of Paris’s most beloved small restaurants, known for its intimacy, warmth, and eclectic cooking.

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A No-Concept Restaurant Turned Cult Favorite

Opened in 2015 in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, Mokonuts quickly became more than a neighborhood café.

Moko Hirayama, born in Tokyo and trained in both pastry and savory kitchens, and Omar Koreitem, born in Lebanon and raised in Paris, drew on their diverse backgrounds and Michelin-starred training to create a space that defied categories. As they describe it, Mokonuts is a “no-concept” restaurant, one shaped less by a strict culinary philosophy and more by genuine hospitality and good food.

Over the years, that approach has earned them a loyal following of regulars, visiting chefs, and globetrotting food lovers. Mokonuts is as much about the atmosphere as the cooking: the ritual of coffee in the morning, the rhythm of regulars who return for their favorite cookie, and the sense of community that binds it all together.

This philosophy now comes alive in their first cookbook, enriched with a foreword by David Lebovitz and Dorie Greenspan. Both writers underline what makes Mokonuts special: an effortless blend of cultures, creativity, and conviviality.

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Mediterranean Roots, French Refinement

Mokonuts Cookbook spans 240 pages and features 100 recipes divided between the two chefs’ voices. It is beautifully photographed by Mickaël Bandassak, whose images capture not just the finished dishes but also the intimacy of the restaurant and the personality of the people behind it.

The first part, Appetizers, Mains, and Larder, is dedicated to Omar’s savory repertoire. His cooking carries the imprint of his Mediterranean heritage and French training, resulting in dishes that are comforting yet refined.

Recipes such as veal and chanterelles with garlic purée and pork chops with borlotti beans and datterini tomatoes demonstrate his ability to blend depth of flavor with a light touch. The larder section is particularly rewarding, offering readers a glimpse into the stocks, condiments, and sauces that underpin so much of the restaurant’s cooking. These foundational recipes are what give Mokonuts its quiet sophistication.

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Cookies, Cakes, and Comfort

The second part, Mornings and Sweet, turns to Moko’s baking, which has achieved near-legendary status. This section captures the heart of Mokonuts’ café culture, from simple pleasures like labneh toast and banana chocolate cake to the cookies that have become the restaurant’s signature.

Whether it’s tahini paired with black sesame, the surprising notes of aosa and coconut, or the comforting combination of rye, cranberry, and dark chocolate, Moko’s flavor pairings are playful yet grounded in technical precision. Seasonal bakes, such as a rhubarb crostata, round out the section with a sense of elegance and restraint.

Beyond the recipes, the book also carries a strong narrative thread. Each chapter is introduced with personal reflections, tracing the chefs’ journeys from Tokyo and Lebanon through prestigious Michelin-starred kitchens to their own small corner of Paris.

It is this storytelling, combined with the recipes, that makes the book not just a manual for cooking but a portrait of a life in food.

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Final Thoughts

Mokonuts: The Cookbook is a testament to how a small, unassuming restaurant can become a cultural landmark, not through trends or grand concepts but through hospitality, consistency, and a willingness to embrace eclectic influences.

More than a recipe collection, this book draws readers into the world of Mokonuts. Through its stories, photography, and carefully chosen recipes, it conveys the intimacy of the restaurant and the spirit of its creators.

Whether for those who have visited Mokonuts or for anyone simply wishing to experience its magic from afar, this cookbook is a worthy addition to the shelf, capturing the essence of a restaurant where good food and good people have always come first.