Fettuccine alla Papalina

Fettuccine alla Papalina

The story behind this fettuccine alla Papalina dates back to the 1930s, when Cardinal Pacelli, who later became Pope Pius XII, asked a restaurant near the Vatican in Rome to make him a lighter version of the classic Spaghetti alla Carbonara. The chef replaced durum wheat semolina spaghetti with homemade egg fettuccine, swapped guanciale for cooked ham, and used Parmesan instead of the stronger tasting Pecorino. Some sources suggest cream was used in place of the egg yolks, but it is unclear when peas were added to the dish. Whatever the exact origin, it is another fantastic example of Roman cuisine and makes a wonderful, quick main course at any time.

This recipe comes from Gennaro's Hidden Italy by Gennaro Contaldo, part of our cookbook review, where he calls it Pope's Pasta. Elsewhere it often goes by pasta alla Papalina, especially when made with tagliatelle instead of fettuccine. It sits in the book's Central Italy chapter alongside other Roman classics, and is a great entry point if you already love carbonara but want something a little softer and less assertive. Part of our recipe collection.

Why It Works

• Steam-frying the onion slowly in butter and olive oil for a full 10 minutes builds sweetness without browning, which keeps the sauce pale and delicate rather than caramelized.
• Whisking the egg yolks with Parmesan before adding them off the heat is what gives the dish its silky, carbonara like texture without the eggs scrambling.
• A splash of the starchy pasta cooking water helps bind the egg and cheese mixture into a glossy sauce that clings to the fettuccine.
• Using cooked ham rather than guanciale or pancetta is exactly what makes this a lighter, gentler dish than a classic carbonara, true to the story behind its creation.

Ingredient Note

Ask your deli to cut the ham into a thick piece, which you can then cube yourself. Thickly cut ham holds its shape in the pan far better than the thin, pre-sliced kind.